100 Pieces. Three Service Paths.
One Manufacturing Group in Hangzhou.

Three production realities set the number. Fabric mill minimums for premium-tier woven and knit run to a set yardage floor — often more cloth than a sub-100-piece run consumes. Pattern release fees and factory line setup are fixed per style regardless of run length. What is MOQ, and why is it usually higher than this? →

Below 100 pieces, the per-unit cost line rises sharply. Sample fees of $250 to $350 cannot credit back meaningfully against smaller runs. Fabric overage runs proportionally larger when mill minimums exceed garment requirements. Deepwove analyzed past production data and found 100 pieces is where the math stabilizes for premium DTC margin structures.

At 100 pieces, Deepwove offers factory-direct pricing, ODM-grade development, and the full Hangzhou in-house team — 4 pattern makers, 4 designers, 2 fabric sourcing specialists — without subsidizing the run. Premium DTC founders find the 100-piece floor low enough to test a style without ordering a year of inventory, and high enough to be quoted seriously by a manufacturer that produces for Reformation, Doen, and Cult Gaia in larger volumes.

The 500-to-1,000-piece MOQ quoted by most China manufacturers is not greed. It is line economics. A mass-market apparel factory in Guangzhou or Shenzhen runs production lines sized for fast-fashion order patterns — 5,000-piece SKUs for Shein, 10,000 to 50,000-piece runs for wholesale retail chains. Line balancing — the number of operators assigned to each garment construction step — is optimized for those volumes. A 100-piece order disrupts the balance for half a day, and the factory loses more efficiency on the broader run than it gains on the small one.

Sourcing agents face a different version of the problem. Most agents do not own production lines — they aggregate orders across multiple brands to hit factory minimums. The agent's MOQ floor reflects the smallest order they can pool with other clients in the same fabric and construction. A 100-piece premium silk dress rarely pairs with anything in the agent's current order book, so the quote comes back at 500 or higher.

Deepwove's structure is different. The Deepwove manufacturing group includes 30+ specialized factories around Hangzhou — small-batch production lines exist alongside high-volume capacity within the same group. A 100-piece premium silk dress routes to a Shaoxing-area workshop set up for small-run silk construction. A 100-piece knit pullover routes to a Tongxiang knit factory with low-volume gauge expertise. The line balancing problem disappears because the line is sized for the order — not retrofitted to it.

The same group manufactures larger volumes for brands listed at our main clothing manufacturer in China page — but the small-batch lines were built into the group from the start. Deepwove can quote 100 pieces because the production infrastructure exists, not because of a marketing concession.

The 100-piece floor applies uniformly across three distinct service paths. Founders entering a first order arrive with different starting points. The 3 service models match the founder's preparation level — not the manufacturer's preference.

Founders unsure which path fits typically describe the project intake in the first 10 minutes of conversation. Brand with a Pinterest board and 3 reference garments — ODM. Brand with a finished tech pack from a freelance pattern maker — OEM. Brand needing 200 pieces of a hero dress in 12 weeks for a holiday drop — Ready Styles, if the Line Sheet contains a fit-and-fabric match. The 100-piece MOQ holds across all three.

The Deepwove Hangzhou workshop — cutting table, mood board, and fabric library in one floor. Three service paths (ODM, OEM, Ready Styles) converge on this production environment at 100-piece MOQ.

Per-unit FOB cost is not flat across quantity tiers. The honest answer for any founder choosing 100 versus 500 versus 1,000 pieces is: 100 costs more per unit. The premium is real, and worth naming clearly before any quote arrives.

Per-unit cost is highest at the 100-piece minimum and compresses steadily as the run grows — 300 and 500 pieces sit progressively lower, and a 1,000-piece run is the most efficient per unit. Most brands move from 100 to 300 pieces by their third reorder, where the per-unit math improves materially against locked patterns.

This curve reflects typical premium-silk-dress production economics — the per-unit premium each quantity tier carries versus a larger run, not an absolute price. Knit, cotton woven, and specialty constructions follow similar curves at their own cost levels: smaller production runs carry a higher per-unit cost, and larger reorders compress it, with the degree depending on construction and fabric grade. The exact per-style number comes back on a quote against the brief.

Three cost drivers create the curve. Fabric overage — when mill minimums exceed garment requirements, the excess yardage gets distributed across the order, so 100 pieces absorb more per unit than 1,000. Fixed pattern and setup costs — pattern release and line setup are fixed per style, so they spread across 100 versus 1,000 garments differently. Finishing line efficiency — operators reach optimal speed only once a run is underway, so smaller runs miss that efficiency window.

Founders running margin math against the 100-piece tier should plan for landed cost as FOB plus freight, duty, port fees, and inland transit on top of the per-style FOB quote. From landed cost, a brand sets retail to fund marketing, fulfilment, returns, and margin. The structural point for a first-order founder: the 100-piece run carries a real per-unit premium, so it is a test of fit, not a stable production-economics target. Reorders against locked patterns at 300+ pieces compress per-unit cost meaningfully — most Deepwove brands cycle from 100 to 300 pieces by the third reorder.

The number a first-order founder actually has to defend is not FOB — it is landed cost into the brand's warehouse, because that figure carries the entire margin equation behind it. Four layers sit between the per-style FOB quote and that landed number. The Section 301 tariff on apparel is the layer most first-order founders misjudge: it runs 7.5% to 25% of FOB value depending on the garment's HTS classification, and it applies before the brand sells a single unit. Ocean freight is charged per container and allocated per piece by case-pack density, so a 100-piece run absorbs a thinner freight allocation than a full container but a heavier per-unit share than a 1,000-piece run. Customs broker, drayage, and port handling add a per-piece handling layer that scales down on larger Premium DTC volumes. Insurance sits at a small fraction of FOB value. A first-order founder running 100-piece margin math should price in all four against the per-style FOB number — not against a flat percentage guess — because the tariff line alone can move the landed figure more than the freight line most founders fixate on. Deepwove quotes FOB factory-direct, so the index every landed layer compounds on is the true factory number, not a sourcing agent's marked-up FOB. The full FOB-to-MSRP stack lives on the clothing manufacturer in China pillar guide.

Cost transparency at this layer is rare in the manufacturing trade. Sample fees of $250-$350 per sample credit back to the first bulk order on confirmation, which materially offsets the small-run premium. The full clothing manufacturer in China pillar guide walks through the cost stack from FOB to MSRP for both North American and Australian brand contexts.

Deepwove has produced first orders for premium DTC founders entering manufacturing for the first time. Across hundreds of intake briefs, five mistakes recur frequently enough to be worth naming directly. None of them reflect founder competence — they reflect knowledge gaps that pattern, fabric, and production teams have built up over decades and most founders are encountering for the first time.

1. Confusing "tech pack" with "design sketch" A tech pack contains flat sketches with construction callouts, BOM with fabric and trim specs, grading rules, finishing notes, and packing guidance. A design sketch is one of the inputs. Founders sending a Procreate file labeled "tech pack" often discover the file is closer to a moodboard. Result: OEM path becomes ODM path, and the timeline extends by 2 to 4 weeks.
   Avoid by sending whatever exists, labeling it accurately, and letting Deepwove flag the gap during 48-hour proposal turnaround. ODM at 100 pieces is normal, not a downgrade.
2. Assuming fabric is "easy to source" Premium silk crepe in a specific weight, or merino jersey at a particular gauge, are not commodities. Mill minimums, dye-lot consistency, and seasonal availability govern timeline more than most founders expect. Result: sampling starts on time, then waits 3 to 6 weeks for fabric to arrive.
   Avoid by naming fabric direction in the brief and letting Deepwove's 2 in-house fabric sourcing specialists run parallel hunts during proposal review.
3. Compressing the timeline to make a launch date A 100-piece first order at Deepwove takes 3 months from brief to ship-out from Hangzhou — phase 1 sampling and sourcing 1 to 6 weeks, then phase 2 production 6 to 8 weeks. Founders booking ads for a launch 8 weeks out frequently rush sample approval and discover construction issues in the 100-piece bulk.
   Avoid by building 12-week buffer between brief and ad spend commitment. Ready Styles path compresses to 6-8 weeks if Line Sheet match exists.
4. Treating MOQ as a price negotiation lever The 100-piece floor at Deepwove is the economic floor, not a negotiation opener disguised as a firm number. Founders pushing below typically receive polite explanation of why the math does not work, and lose 3 days of timeline.
   Avoid by accepting the 100-piece floor and using sample fee credit ($250-$350 per sample, credited back to bulk) as the real cost optimization.
5. Skipping the sample fit session The first sample arrives. The founder approves over email based on photos. The 100-piece bulk arrives and the shoulder reads 1 inch different from the moodboard reference. Result: brand absorbs a fit miss across the full run.
   Avoid by scheduling a 30-minute video fit session with Deepwove's pattern team before bulk confirmation. Adjustments at sample stage cost zero. Adjustments after bulk cost the brand.